Instrukcja montażu i podłączenia Ge Cleandesign Gsm603t

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My favorite things about the video:

I can confirm the Craftsman T style handle torx (T20) is definitely long enough! I also didn't remove either end of the line but was careful not to bend it too much when removing the head. Thanks for the video.

Lots of good information. I liked the fact that you chose to not replace a perfectly good lower bearing. The world is full of parts changers, and it's true if you throw enough parts at any broken equipment it will eventually be fixed. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

OBTW: The cover is important to air flow ...without it the inlet pipe and head get very hot in short order. Besides being a burn hazard, I would think the additional heat build up at the head will not promote long life for the graphite ring in the compression chamber. Also Amazon has the parts cheaper than sears ...(who may no longer even have the rebuild kit.) Sears does not sell the regulator valve any longer for this and some of the replacement ones claiming to be "4 port" actually only read regulated pressure at both gauges. If you want both you will have to do a little extra plumbing. Harbor Freight has a decent regulator for around $14 so don't spent $60 on a 4 port that is really a 3 port!

Decent video...helpful. I chose to not cut the cover up, but replace the screws with Philips head for the next guy! I also took the baffles out , gave them a good cleaning, & a light smear of gun oil before reassembling. Did the same on the new piston ring. One thing I did notice worth mentioning. The inside of my chamber & cylinder was nastie and, at least some of the gunk in there was the old foam air filter that had dried out and got sucked into the intake. (pieces of it were embedded into the cylinder wall). I made a new filter from a scotch-brite sanding pad...again applying a thin coating of gun oil. Put it all back together and in just over 2 minutes had 120lb of pressure. Well worth the effort and cost of the re-build kit!

Great video. I almost junked my compressor, but after watching your video I'm keeping it. and I like your presentation style. Keep up the good work!

Great video! I didn't know a rebuild was this easy and cheap. It looks like the plastic part you cut off and put on top of the fan would let a lot of air through, so I'd be worried that it blows a lot of air up and out, instead of over the compressor head.

Appreciate your efforts to video record the rebuild, nice job. I didn't see you mention the size of the Torx screws, and it was a shame you sawed the cowlings apart the way you did.

Thanks a million. I've got a Craftsman compressor that has seen daily use for 16+ years and I ALMOST took it to the scrap yard to replace with something else. Now not only do I not have to, I have an inexpensive project to keep me busy during these times. Appreciate this!!

Todd, you're the man!  My 18 year old compressor, basically the same unit as in your video, has developed some serious blow-by.  I didn't stop to think Sears would see a rebuild kit.  I'm always looking for a project, so I'll happily spend $50 to get the kit vs. spending $400 for a new compressor.  Thanks for taking the time to post this video.

Wow, great video! I almost didn't watch it because it was 23 minutes long, but well worth my time. Just starting to get into air tools and this knowledge will definitely come in handy when it comes time for me to do some similar maintenance!

Good on you! I have a Coleman compressor with the same affliction. It looks very similar to that model on the inside, but the kit was closer to $100. I got the parts kit about a year ago and have yet to do the rebuild. Thanks for pushing it back on to my to-do list!

Just a heads up.

Great video rebuilt mine yesterday. My start capacitor went bad so while i had the motor off to replace the start capacitor I figured might as well do a rebuild. Amazing how much faster the compressor shuts off after building up pressure in half the time it use to

Nice repair video. You are the first one I encounter to mention the various torc values. You mentioned that the piston should stay straight, but in operation it will tumble also to the left and the right due go the fact that piston and its rod are one part and does not contain an extra bearing as a car or motor engine do in combination with exentric on the crankshaft.

Well, I found the problem. One of the little fan blades had broken off and got wedged through that compres ring/seal on the edge of the piston. The good news is that the actual piston cylinder looked remarkably clean. Thanks again for all the help! I'm more of a computer geek who would have never taken the initiative to repair this if it were not for your video.

Thanks for the well done video. Got one of these this morning I'll need to go through, and have a suggestion on the long torx. Torx and hex are basically interchangeable if you use the proper size, and 12" hex wrenches are fairly easy to find. (The original 9"/10" screen Macintoshs had the same challenge, solved the same way.)

Great do-it-yourself Video, Todd. And as a famous President once said, which keeps people from working on things is: "The only thing we have to Fear is Fear itself." And with great video's like this, You have eleminated the FEAR part. And Yes, AZ is hot, saw 124 degress under our shaded carport yesterday. Thanks again for a great "how to" Video.

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